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I'm actually pretty lazily working on a "safe" costume project, a project in which the new diametre of my new belly isn't much involved, that is a rather high waist period, the 1820s.
I'm first working on Katherine 1820-1840 corset repro. It's actually quite a dream to work with, but when you now spell the words "corset" or "stays" under my nose, you can see the hairs of my eyebrows wrinkle in awe, so I'm making work on this project longer than necessary.
I'm also working on a dress from Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th century by Aline Bernstein, the violet velvet dress with long large sleeves, probably from the end of the 20s, of the p.33. When I found this book in Brentano's in Paris, it opens itself at that very page when I first took it in the hands, and I said rather loudly : "I want this one." I really like to be ridiculous in bookshops :)
I was really surprise by the few problems I had with that pattern. I have read Jen's message where the majority of costumers from the LJ costume fondom circle told that for them sewing is the worst part of that hobby, and I just don't understand !! I mean, it only becomes funny when you're assembling it, when it took form and meaning !! This to say that for me pattern drafting and adapting is e-v-i-l ! The Bernstein's Book is one of the worst kind of pattern you can imagine : it has no grid, nor grads on the sides, only some period mesurements (that evidently refer to nothing anatomically humanoïd today, except Kate Moss -- in diminutive), unstrategically placed on the patterns and with half of them, naturally, missing. So I just chose the simple 21th century lazy costumer, and I enlarge it on a xerox to get the general idea of the thing. As a reference, I chose the high of the waist : it isn't empire waist anymore, but it's still rather high. With that, I made a preliminary toile. It reallly isn't -- I think -- a good manner to work on patterns, but it's the only one that works for me. When I try to translate a pattern to my own measurements directly, it always ends in a desastre.
Anyway, this time it was a miracle ! Except for the back that needs a minor adaptation to my 95 cm round chest, everything fits perfectly !!. I need to check again with the corset, but apparently, I'm living a dream...
Which naturally leads to nightmarish questionning about undergarnment. I already know I will need a corded petticoat, which in itself would frighten to death Voldemort itself. To give the special fulness and support of the dresses of the period, I wanted to make two, with 5 to 10 rows of cording each (how mad am I to take such unbelievable decisions ?) : a normal petticoats and one of this combination/shift petticoats. I know they were sometimes (maybe often) used with the corset, and I don't understand how it all works. Does the corset goes over or under that kind of petticoats? And if the corset is under, is there a "real" shift under the corset ?
A for the "normal" petticoat, I have read somewher that high-waisted petticoats of that period where held in place by some kind of shoulder straps : any idea of what it looks like, and how it really works ?
Any help and advice will be recieve with the lifetime gratitude due !!
PS : Oh ! And did I forget to mention that nothing in that project was in in my New Year Costuming Resolutions ?
I'm first working on Katherine 1820-1840 corset repro. It's actually quite a dream to work with, but when you now spell the words "corset" or "stays" under my nose, you can see the hairs of my eyebrows wrinkle in awe, so I'm making work on this project longer than necessary.
I'm also working on a dress from Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th century by Aline Bernstein, the violet velvet dress with long large sleeves, probably from the end of the 20s, of the p.33. When I found this book in Brentano's in Paris, it opens itself at that very page when I first took it in the hands, and I said rather loudly : "I want this one." I really like to be ridiculous in bookshops :)
I was really surprise by the few problems I had with that pattern. I have read Jen's message where the majority of costumers from the LJ costume fondom circle told that for them sewing is the worst part of that hobby, and I just don't understand !! I mean, it only becomes funny when you're assembling it, when it took form and meaning !! This to say that for me pattern drafting and adapting is e-v-i-l ! The Bernstein's Book is one of the worst kind of pattern you can imagine : it has no grid, nor grads on the sides, only some period mesurements (that evidently refer to nothing anatomically humanoïd today, except Kate Moss -- in diminutive), unstrategically placed on the patterns and with half of them, naturally, missing. So I just chose the simple 21th century lazy costumer, and I enlarge it on a xerox to get the general idea of the thing. As a reference, I chose the high of the waist : it isn't empire waist anymore, but it's still rather high. With that, I made a preliminary toile. It reallly isn't -- I think -- a good manner to work on patterns, but it's the only one that works for me. When I try to translate a pattern to my own measurements directly, it always ends in a desastre.
Anyway, this time it was a miracle ! Except for the back that needs a minor adaptation to my 95 cm round chest, everything fits perfectly !!. I need to check again with the corset, but apparently, I'm living a dream...
Which naturally leads to nightmarish questionning about undergarnment. I already know I will need a corded petticoat, which in itself would frighten to death Voldemort itself. To give the special fulness and support of the dresses of the period, I wanted to make two, with 5 to 10 rows of cording each (how mad am I to take such unbelievable decisions ?) : a normal petticoats and one of this combination/shift petticoats. I know they were sometimes (maybe often) used with the corset, and I don't understand how it all works. Does the corset goes over or under that kind of petticoats? And if the corset is under, is there a "real" shift under the corset ?
A for the "normal" petticoat, I have read somewher that high-waisted petticoats of that period where held in place by some kind of shoulder straps : any idea of what it looks like, and how it really works ?
Any help and advice will be recieve with the lifetime gratitude due !!
PS : Oh ! And did I forget to mention that nothing in that project was in in my New Year Costuming Resolutions ?
