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I'm actually pretty lazily working on a "safe" costume project, a project in which the new diametre of my new belly isn't much involved, that is a rather high waist period, the 1820s.
I'm first working on Katherine 1820-1840 corset repro. It's actually quite a dream to work with, but when you now spell the words "corset" or "stays" under my nose, you can see the hairs of my eyebrows wrinkle in awe, so I'm making work on this project longer than necessary.
I'm also working on a dress from Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th century by Aline Bernstein, the violet velvet dress with long large sleeves, probably from the end of the 20s, of the p.33. When I found this book in Brentano's in Paris, it opens itself at that very page when I first took it in the hands, and I said rather loudly : "I want this one." I really like to be ridiculous in bookshops :)
I was really surprise by the few problems I had with that pattern. I have read Jen's message where the majority of costumers from the LJ costume fondom circle told that for them sewing is the worst part of that hobby, and I just don't understand !! I mean, it only becomes funny when you're assembling it, when it took form and meaning !! This to say that for me pattern drafting and adapting is e-v-i-l ! The Bernstein's Book is one of the worst kind of pattern you can imagine : it has no grid, nor grads on the sides, only some period mesurements (that evidently refer to nothing anatomically humanoïd today, except Kate Moss -- in diminutive), unstrategically placed on the patterns and with half of them, naturally, missing. So I just chose the simple 21th century lazy costumer, and I enlarge it on a xerox to get the general idea of the thing. As a reference, I chose the high of the waist : it isn't empire waist anymore, but it's still rather high. With that, I made a preliminary toile. It reallly isn't -- I think -- a good manner to work on patterns, but it's the only one that works for me. When I try to translate a pattern to my own measurements directly, it always ends in a desastre.
Anyway, this time it was a miracle ! Except for the back that needs a minor adaptation to my 95 cm round chest, everything fits perfectly !!. I need to check again with the corset, but apparently, I'm living a dream...
Which naturally leads to nightmarish questionning about undergarnment. I already know I will need a corded petticoat, which in itself would frighten to death Voldemort itself. To give the special fulness and support of the dresses of the period, I wanted to make two, with 5 to 10 rows of cording each (how mad am I to take such unbelievable decisions ?) : a normal petticoats and one of this combination/shift petticoats. I know they were sometimes (maybe often) used with the corset, and I don't understand how it all works. Does the corset goes over or under that kind of petticoats? And if the corset is under, is there a "real" shift under the corset ?
A for the "normal" petticoat, I have read somewher that high-waisted petticoats of that period where held in place by some kind of shoulder straps : any idea of what it looks like, and how it really works ?
Any help and advice will be recieve with the lifetime gratitude due !!
PS : Oh ! And did I forget to mention that nothing in that project was in in my New Year Costuming Resolutions ?
I'm first working on Katherine 1820-1840 corset repro. It's actually quite a dream to work with, but when you now spell the words "corset" or "stays" under my nose, you can see the hairs of my eyebrows wrinkle in awe, so I'm making work on this project longer than necessary.
I'm also working on a dress from Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th century by Aline Bernstein, the violet velvet dress with long large sleeves, probably from the end of the 20s, of the p.33. When I found this book in Brentano's in Paris, it opens itself at that very page when I first took it in the hands, and I said rather loudly : "I want this one." I really like to be ridiculous in bookshops :)
I was really surprise by the few problems I had with that pattern. I have read Jen's message where the majority of costumers from the LJ costume fondom circle told that for them sewing is the worst part of that hobby, and I just don't understand !! I mean, it only becomes funny when you're assembling it, when it took form and meaning !! This to say that for me pattern drafting and adapting is e-v-i-l ! The Bernstein's Book is one of the worst kind of pattern you can imagine : it has no grid, nor grads on the sides, only some period mesurements (that evidently refer to nothing anatomically humanoïd today, except Kate Moss -- in diminutive), unstrategically placed on the patterns and with half of them, naturally, missing. So I just chose the simple 21th century lazy costumer, and I enlarge it on a xerox to get the general idea of the thing. As a reference, I chose the high of the waist : it isn't empire waist anymore, but it's still rather high. With that, I made a preliminary toile. It reallly isn't -- I think -- a good manner to work on patterns, but it's the only one that works for me. When I try to translate a pattern to my own measurements directly, it always ends in a desastre.
Anyway, this time it was a miracle ! Except for the back that needs a minor adaptation to my 95 cm round chest, everything fits perfectly !!. I need to check again with the corset, but apparently, I'm living a dream...
Which naturally leads to nightmarish questionning about undergarnment. I already know I will need a corded petticoat, which in itself would frighten to death Voldemort itself. To give the special fulness and support of the dresses of the period, I wanted to make two, with 5 to 10 rows of cording each (how mad am I to take such unbelievable decisions ?) : a normal petticoats and one of this combination/shift petticoats. I know they were sometimes (maybe often) used with the corset, and I don't understand how it all works. Does the corset goes over or under that kind of petticoats? And if the corset is under, is there a "real" shift under the corset ?
A for the "normal" petticoat, I have read somewher that high-waisted petticoats of that period where held in place by some kind of shoulder straps : any idea of what it looks like, and how it really works ?
Any help and advice will be recieve with the lifetime gratitude due !!
PS : Oh ! And did I forget to mention that nothing in that project was in in my New Year Costuming Resolutions ?
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Date: 2005-03-18 12:18 pm (UTC)From:Just my two pence, I don't really have specifical knowledge about this period, just logic thinking... Hope this helps
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Date: 2005-03-19 05:18 pm (UTC)From:no subject
Date: 2005-03-19 12:34 am (UTC)From:Here are some pictures. I have to get this on my site!
I'm wearing my 1830s corset under it (glad you like the pattern!!!). Also, a bodiced petticoat (which is peeking out in that picture from the front. I put an emergency tuck in the skirt with a safety pin). I unfortunately don't have any pictures of that, but I used the same pattern for it as I did the bodice of the dress. I just made it sleeveless. The skirt has something like ten rows of hemp cording in it. I'm wearing it over the corset.
So, here's everything I have underneath in order. Shift, corset, bodiced petticoat. That's it. Well, except for shoes and stockings ;)
The skirt has a padded hem too, which helps to hold it out.
I also have another bodiced petticoat that goes under my embroidered Regency dress. Again, I made a sleeveless version of the dress for the bodice. This skirt has about 20 rows of cotton cording.
And while we're on the corded petticoat topic, I'm almost done-it just needs a waistband-with my 62 rows of cording corded petticoat. Talk about insane :) All by hand...
But, for some original pictures, here's a bodiced petticoat that was on eBay sometime back...
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Date: 2005-03-19 05:31 pm (UTC)From:I can't say I didn't wonder a lot about your red dress and the undergarnment going with it. Sounds like someone heard my prayers... Yes, mine will be from the same period, but it's a day dress, nearly floor length. I will have to ponder about that lenght, by the way : I want my feet to show a little, but I afraid it will look a little bit silly. Anyway...
(glad you like the pattern!!!)
There should be more people like you putting patterns of original garnments on the net. I have your reproduction of the 1880 bodice on my I-Absolutly-Want-This List. What's next ?!!
The corset's still going like a dream : there should be something magiic in it, because it never happens to me, such miracles...
So, here's everything I have underneath in order. Shift, corset, bodiced petticoat. That's it. Well, except for shoes and stockings ;)
The skirt has a padded hem too, which helps to hold it out.
It really helps me to know about it, because I found your dress to have the perfect shape of the period, so you resolve my problem.
And as for padded hem, I can't imagine a dress fom this period without a padded hem :)
And the pictures !!! Thanks !! They are fabulous, and give a very interesting look of the front. I will certainly use it as idea...