Cleves approaches

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:56 am[personal profile] glittersweet
glittersweet: (Default)

I was going to do a lot of machine sewing to get her ready for Coronation so I instead took the time I had to sew by hand. Some of it went really welll, some like the haube is fiddly because the accessories are just not the way we are used to. I need to make my haube tie and also make sure all the gathers are near the crown. I may wind up pleating on my head form instead.


There may even be time to get pearls on the partlet. What is weird is I have a very long neck so I can wear my collar and show the full band of gold.


 


Okay, I now have my second lot of antibiotics 9note, not for the flu but for the secondary bacterial infection I have had since day two of the flu!)

chocolatepot: (Default)
Skirt is mostly gauged! I need a smaller hoop to wear with it, though (unsurprising, since the pattern is technically from the early 1850s if not late 1840s) (but still, damn that 55"-wide fabric) ... I'll be starching my petticoats for next weekend and it will probably look "not terrible". At some point, I'm going to put three flounces on the skirt, which will help. Don't know if I'd say that I'm looking forward to Civil War Weekend, but at least I'm not dreading it due to costume unfinishedness.

I also cut out the yoke and flounces for a very ruffly '50s "Mexican-style" petticoat, and pinned the basic seams. The flounces are all circular, and like an idiot I cut the wider flounce circles all the way through instead of just halfway. ಠ_ಠ Right now my docket is looking like:

- finish 1850s dress
- make ruffly petticoat
- 1950s bathing suit
- second petticoat, less ruffly? (maybe a narrower one to replace slip layer)
- then finally new 1950s dress

I'd kind of like to make two bathing suits before we go to Cape Cod in September (Dad was like "hey when would be good for you to go?" and I was like "we have to do it for my birthday because if I stay at home by myself for my 30th birthday it's just going to be REALLY PATHETIC"), but I'd rather try out the whole "woven bathing suit with a zipper" concept before I completely commit to it.

When I do get to the new dress, bearing in mind that I have to do a FBA, should I make a shirtdress, a pretty pattern I haven't tried before with gathery darts below the bust, or revisit a pattern that has worked for me in the past (the version I have now is a bit big)? I can't decide.

---

I'm getting burnt out on the Emerging Museum Professionals and Non-Profit Happy Hour Facebook groups. I mean, all Facebook stuff in general, but those two groups are draining - so much venting, and they also have a tendency to become a parody of social justice, being incredibly snarky and dismissive of institutions that need interns (and I could understand if there was more substantial discussion of what constitutes an unethical internship and what's volunteering, but instead it's just ranting about how "you shouldn't have workers you can't pay") and coming up with ideas about hiring solely based on resumés (but not their formatting or spelling or way of describing things). At least Costume People, while being ranty, manages to also actually discuss issues.

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm[personal profile] mandie_rw
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

sweating my tits off

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:23 pm[personal profile] robinsnest
robinsnest: (Default)
Apparently there is a Fort at the tip of NJ named Fort Mott. I just learned this as somehow via the magic of Facebook [personal profile] mandie_rw , [personal profile] miss_philomena , [personal profile] hiraimi and I found and ended up at a Boer War reenactment there today. Now the even just said "Boer war and Victorian something something something" so I googled Boer war and went "perfect I have 1880s"...Guess who didn't tell Robin there are apparently TWO Boer wars. Cause if you're gonna get in a fight over something the british like to do it twice. 100 years war, revolution and war of 1812, WWI and WWII....luckily for us no one disowned us for wearing our 1880s natural form dresses.
Untitled




 
I of course got a bit turned around when picking Alice up so we were a few min late, I think Amanda and Adrienne saw the entire event in the 20 min for us to catch up...oops. I did a quick change in the parking lot, much to the stares of the family BBQ. *ahem excuse me as I drop my skirt. yes I'm wearing bloomers*




We got there just in time to huff it up the walls of the fort to watch the "battle." I know I know the military half of this isn't MY personal jam but I'd rather you just did a weapons demo, because a battle of five vs 10 is still pretty silly looking unrealistic. After a 5 min battle in which the Boer's won we promptly left the hot pavement in search of shade and the picnic lunch we had packed.




Luckily for us our friend Mick was there (of Belvidere fame) and we pretty much parked our butts under his tent fly for the rest of the event, sans one quick run to the loo where a probably 8 year old girl was DETERMINED to get some quality first person reenactment experience.


"Are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"What men?"
"But are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"No I'm going to the loo..."

This dress was always intended to have more trim, so as a way of making myself work on things for September BEFORE said month I tried to get more of the trim put on this time. I also got the overskirt made, but only partially trimmed. And I have to say I'm HUGELY pleased with how it turned out.
Untitled


Left on the list is the brown band and top row of ruffle on the overskirt, if there's yardage left I want to add more fullness to the back of the overskirt, I cut it way to skimpy to try and leave enough for trim. I also either need to lose weight or add a placket in the front and move the hooks and eyes over in the bust as it's pulling and gapping and that's bad. oh and bone the bodice. okay I guess it's a long list still...never ending.

I did manage to sweat through everything. It was only in the 80s but with humidity to rival Louisiana, easily one of the hottest times I've gone out in costume. but I always think of myself as someone who does horribly badly in heat and I've done several hot weather things recently and been really proud of how well I did. I loaded up with water the day before, drank tons the day of, and ta-da I survived!
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
So, I pulled out the Brunswick, tried it on (sort of, no corset or anything) and remembered the super tight sleeves. Hmph. So, instead of doing the sensible thing and getting something else out, I spent I think about three hours redoing the sleeves. It was fairly easy, just fiddly. Strangely, the upper sleeve was much easier than the lower sleeves, which are just basted in. Those had practically no seam allowance which made it weird. The sleeves all have lapped seams now instead of the original types they had. It's much easier to sew a lapped seam on a set sleeve and a sleeve with almost no seam allowance.

Then I packed and noticed it was three and I hadn't really eaten anything and *thud*

Cleves gown made

Jul. 23rd, 2017 10:25 pm[personal profile] glittersweet
glittersweet: (Default)

My Anna von Kleve Julich & Berg gown is done aside from some hooks and eyes in the skirt.


The bodice and sleeves fit nicely but I am ver narrow, and after the flu moreso… so today I get to hunt for all the wool shoulderpads I can as I will need enhancement.


The hanging sleeves are finally hemmed, woohoo, and the chemise just needs a button and some seam finishing (the sleeves were french seamed originally and so I need to just tidy a few inches between the cuffs and up the arm. I really want to take some excess linen out but will leave that until I’ve worn it a few times. The sleeves look so pretty though and will make a lot of garb look really good. And I know what my nest two frocks are 🙂 So excited.


So it may be that I will have to use a lot of cunning machine work in my velvet Cologne so that I can actually get her done 🙂


And I may be able to get my documentation for her up fairly soon. But I want the Spanish stuff up first as a handy practical guide 🙂


And I’d like to get all my garb patterns webified especially with so many lovely extant patterns out there now to use as references and (please buy these!!!)


 


I do have my haube. I may use my machine and then hand stitch over the top. That’s how I did my belt. The machine acted like basting which is hidden by gold braid. So I’m just waiting to hear back from some people who want to see this in the next few days and then I can have a proper rest and start collection info for my final workshop 🙂


Oh and my jeweled neckline. That’s a lining. Same with my frontal decoration on my stickelsche.


 


Ah yes. The three panel skirt pattern too.

More regency

Jul. 23rd, 2017 11:15 pm[personal profile] frualeydis
frualeydis: (Default)
So, aside from taking in my stays and making a new bonnet (that needs to be lined, so to not snag my hair) I have sewn the skirt of my blue gown together, hemmed it, and started on an embroidery around the hem. The pattern for the embroidery is from the cap of my folk costume, which is dated to the late 18th or early 19th century.




I was lazy this time and just cut the place mat to shape, instead of unraveling the braid and shaping it while sewing.
The blue colour is seen in several late 18th-early 19th century pictures, though then probably made from silk, and not from cotton. Inspiration for embroidering it was gowns like this, with a dark background and colourful embroidery.


Which of course is silk, and has a much more rich and complicated embroidery. But I think my gown will look pretty with its cotton embroidery. The pattern I use is the same as on the cap of my folk costume, which is roughly from this period.

I have also bought material for another bonnet: a braided place mat and a cotton satin sheet that was reduced by 70%. It will be enough to make a summer spencer too.



The other gowns I plan are to made from a saree that hasn't arrived yet, and from this printed thin cotton:



The bonnet with purple cotton satin is of course intended to be worn with that gown.

I also bought these shoes on sale yesterday, and though the metal details aren't to my liking, I think they will do. Especially after I've painted over the brass ;)








beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm[personal profile] mandie_rw
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



(no subject)

Jul. 22nd, 2017 04:55 pm[personal profile] chocolatepot
chocolatepot: (Default)
I put the piping on the lower edge of the bodice!



It's so funny, the idea of piping always completely intimidated me before I made my dress for the Hallowedding and I never bothered to actually try it (not that I had done that much Victorian sewing before then, anyway, but). My Cranford dress has this awkward, bulky hem at the bottom of the bodice, because I thought that would be easier than piping! I should write a blog post on that. Fortunately, the piping - and the bulk of the gathering folded up under the piping - helps to hold out the front panel, which was all squirrelly and didn't want to stay flat. Unfortunately, it's somehow ended up with much less of a point than I wanted ... which seems to be a regular occurrence with me. Possibly because I have a tendency to forget that it's not enough to just increase side-to-side for a large bust, but also to make the bodice longer.

I'm going to set aside balancing the skirt for now (I have a three-day weekend since I'm working next Saturday, I've got the time) and think about using that petticoat booklet after dinner to cut out one or two. My nylon tulle one is just stifling, so I hate wearing it, and anyway holes are developing in various places. But because of the need for flounces/ruffles, this means *sigh* learning to use my hemming foot and ruffler attachment, both of which terrify me. And I recognize the obvious parallel in the previous paragraph ... I just need to learn to do it, but it feels impossible.

Extant Gowns I adore

Jul. 22nd, 2017 09:56 pm[personal profile] glittersweet
glittersweet: (Default)

 


Mantua, V&A Museum, London



  • Place of origin:  Spitalfields (textile, weaving) England (mantua, sewing)

  • Date: ca. 1720 (weaving)  1720-1730 (sewing)

  • Artist/Maker: Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques: Silk, silk thread, silver-gilt thread; hand-woven brocading, hand-sewn.

  • Museum number: T.88 to C-1978

  • Gallery location: In Storage

  • Interactive full views


I am not sure if the petticoat and front are original, if they are it’s a lovely example of a non matching set.  There are a handful of these early mantua that are extant. The very delicate colour choices of pale blue and silver would have made this stand out in candlelight.

Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

Hat so far

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:22 pm[personal profile] mala_14
mala_14: (Default)
This is the straw hat after being shaped. Still needs lining and trim. I think I like it, but I'm quite certain I'll like it more with a bunch of crap stuck all over it.


atherleisure: (Default)
I'm posting more for the sake of posting than because I have anything particular to say. After I finished the first side of a pinball two weeks ago, I started a new cross-stitch piece, and there's really not much to say about cross-stitching. I've worked on it a fair bit, and I'm about a third of the way finished with it. It has a lot of blank squares so it's going really fast. At this rate, I'll finish it in about four more weeks, and then I'm planning to get back to pinball knitting.

Anyway, I just wanted to let people know I'm around and reading, just not doing anything very exciting.
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
I was so happy with the first springed corset, I decided I needed another one, if time worked out. Although I fit the straps on the green one under the beaded dress, I didn't trust them to stay--they did need to be pinned under the bird dress which has a higher neckline.

So now I have a pale pink one started. The springs are in. It has a flat section at the center back and the straps on either side of that. It'll be interesting to see how it works!

I think I can finish tomorrow...

Cleves updates

Jul. 22nd, 2017 04:32 am[personal profile] glittersweet
glittersweet: (Default)

Firstly some headgear progress 🙂 Becase my pearlwork is so dimensional I need a flat brocade front, and then am able to have a flat but slightly more texture brocade for the haub.



Then we have the brocade for the collar and neckline. Yep, pressed the brocade into a curve! Ditto for the piece above actually 🙂



I’m super happy about the collar 🙂 I keep readjusing the neckline though.


 


I have tried it all on and I think I’ll just do some judicious padding of my inner layers as I am rather not as wide across my chest.


The skirt has a flatlining, and I kind of wish I hadn’t but it would require some serious careful unpicking because I used a triple stitch. This makes the diagonal seams as strong as if I had used a backstitch- I’ve had side seams pop a few times and the weight of this hem would definitely do that!



And yes, I have been working on her distinctive partlet 🙂 Pearling is not going to be fun but what the hey?



 

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm[personal profile] mandie_rw
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

Quote of the Day

Jul. 21st, 2017 08:55 pm[personal profile] brickhousewench
brickhousewench: (Hawkeye-Hugs)
“My life may be a shit show right now, but I have friends that love me enough to help shovel me out.

I’m glad M has got friends to support him through this.

(no subject)

Jul. 21st, 2017 09:02 am[personal profile] chocolatepot
chocolatepot: (Default)
Finally started my Hamiathes' Gift fic the other day - as usual with fanfiction, it's very hard for me to begin because I get all anxious about characterization and timeline issues. It's going to be good. >:3

Spent time spread out over two days agonizing over dating this dress with ca. 1880 sleeves, ca. 1900? bodice front, ca. 1906 bodice back and skirt, ca. ???? skirt decoration (faux-buttoning down the front, "opening" over a triangular panel with horizontal bands of black velvet), and evidence of alteration. Now of course I don't know why it took me so long ...

Help english speakers

Jul. 21st, 2017 05:47 pm[personal profile] wataya
wataya: (Default)
I'm a french speaker, and sometimes there are expressions that I don't understand, even with the help of Google.

Can someone try to explain me what "streamline instructions" is supposed to mean in " This Corset Pattern does not come with Streamlined Instructions", please ?

More Trippy Progress

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:20 am[personal profile] ktlovely
ktlovely: (Default)
My weird but efficient and effective hip exercise is working, I think. I think I didn't mention it in my last post, but I've had fairly persistent SI joint pain* for years, on my left side. I have had less pain, or at least less awareness of pain vs. awareness of the pain site, in the past few days, than in a long time. It's not like it was super crippling or anything, but I guess I got used to a certain level of discomfort and now that it's different/less I'm aware of the spot that WAS painful but ISN'T now. It's weird!

I did my exercise before and after running last night as directed and noticed also that I was SUPER wiped afterwards. To be fair, it was also quite warm and humid yesterday--the dogs were very worn out as well. But I wonder if part of my fatigue is that my body is getting used to a slightly different conformation than normal. Anything's possible I suppose.

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And Behold My success

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